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Barcelona is one of my favourite cities in the world and a place I can't stop returning to. It's like a second home to me: the place where I mended a broken heart, re-found my independence and fell for a city like no other before. I love the winding streets lined with balconies, and independent bars, restaurants and shops. I love the sea, the beach and the gorgeous parks filled with laidback folk and the sounds of guitars and pan drums. It's a city that reveals more secrets every time I visit.
A Quick Introduction to Barcelona's Different Barrios
Before you go, familiarise yourself with the different areas that make up Barcelona. This might help you choose where to stay, depending on your interests.
Barri Gòtic
This is the older part of town, made up of atmospheric winding streets, pretty squares and tons of little bars, cafes, restaurants and shops. It can be touristy in places (especially closer to the Rambla) but you can almost always find a quiet or local spot. You wouldn't want to miss this part of the city.
Born / Ribera
This area is similar to Barri Gòtic but a little more upmarket. Its centrepiece is the wonderfully imposing Santa Maria del Mar church, which gives way to a maze of little streets. Metro stops Urquinaona or Jaume I are good jumping-off points for the barrio.
Raval
Raval is on the other side of the Rambla to Barri Gòtic and is often referred to as "the wrong side of the tracks" due to its past reputation. Since the 90s it has started to clean up its act and is now a trendy area that rivals Gòtic and Born for excellent restaurants, bars and cafes. The further north you go, the smarter it gets, with the southern end still being a little rough around the edges.
Gràcia
Gràcia is one of my favourite barrios. It has a bohemian village vibe and a thriving Catalan community. Situated in the north of the city, it's a little more out of the way, but definitely worth a visit to lounge and people-watch in one of the plazas.
Barceloneta
This working-class enclave has some great tapas bars and is a great place to wander around en route to the seafront, which it borders. Barceloneta has a different flavour at night — it's next to Port Olímpic, home to some of the city's most touristy clubs. For my taste, Port Olímpic is best avoided, but if you want mega clubs then it's where to go.
Things to Do in Barcelona
Like with nearly every city we visit, the thing I like to do best is walk around exploring different neighbourhoods and punctuating our days with delicious food. Barcelona is perfect for that with its beautiful winding streets and sunny weather. I recommend wandering and losing yourself in the city's beauty.
Do a Sunset Sail
One activity that's often overlooked in Barcelona is getting out on the water and seeing the city from the sea. Book a sunset boat tour and enjoy the amazing views of the Barcelona skyline during the golden hour. It includes snacks and unlimited drinks (local cava, beer, etc.) and costs just €39 per person. They also do private boat trips if you'd prefer to enjoy it alone with family or friends. It's one of the most special things to do in Barcelona.
Parc de la Ciutadella
This park is one of my favourite places in Barcelona, especially at weekends. It's the perfect place for people watching, full of slack-lining hippies, guitar players, tap dancers and families picnicking. Take a blanket and a coffee and soak up the laid-back vibes. The park is accessible from the Born area or you can walk down from Arc de Triomf.
Park Güell
This sculpture park high above the city was designed by Gaudí and is brilliantly absurd with great views. Even if you're not a fan of Gaudí, it's still worth seeing.
Sagrada Familia
Some people love it, others hate it — I'm most definitely in the love-it camp, but either way, there's nothing quite like the Sagrada Familia and I'd definitely recommend taking a look, even if just from the outside. I recommend doing the audioguide, which gives a brilliant and not too long overview of the building and all its history. The Sagrada Familia is incredibly popular and tickets are limited each day, so arrive early to avoid disappointment.
Picasso Museum
I didn't go to the Picasso Museum until I moved to Barcelona, and I'm not sure what held me back as it's brilliant, offering a fascinating insight into the artist's life and the trajectory of his work.
Montjuïc
From Plaza España, you can walk up to Montjuïc, one of the hills surrounding Barcelona. If you're not feeling up for the hike, you can get the funicular from Paral·lel metro stop. From there, it's easy to visit the Miró museum, which holds regular exhibitions alongside the permanent collection. From Montjuïc, you can get the iconic telefèric cable car across to the beach. In the summer, they hold open-air cinema nights in the moat surrounding Montjuïc's Castle — don't miss it if you're there at the right time. I also recommend visiting the Mossèn Costa i Llobera garden, a stunning display of cacti with gorgeous views out to sea.
MACBA
If you're looking for modern art, the MACBA is the place to go. It's in the northern part of Raval, near the university. I'd also recommend the Caixa Forum Museum, which often holds interesting contemporary art exhibitions.
The Beaches
An extra jewel in Barcelona's already bursting crown is its location on the seafront. Being able to stroll along the seafront or visit the beach makes Barcelona extra special. To get away from the crowds and find cleaner water, it's best to head to beaches slightly further from the city centre, like Mar Bella, Boatel and Nova Icaria. Barceloneta is the closest to the centre but can get jam packed and the water isn't the cleanest.
Boqueria Market
You have to go to the Rambla to get to the Boqueria Market. Despite being wildly busy, it's a wonderful must-see market full of fantastic fruit and veg. There are also some great tapas places at the back.
Day Trips from Barcelona
One day trip I recommend from Barcelona is visiting Garrotxa and taking a hot air balloon ride. Going to Tarragona and Tortosa is another good option, or heading to Montserrat, Figueres or somewhere on the coast, such as Sitges.
Where to Eat in Barcelona
Breakfast and Brunch
– Federal Cafe: Federal Cafe was on every list of the best brunches in Barcelona, so we decided we had to try it for ourselves. It was opened by two Australian locals and wouldn't be out of place in Melbourne. The menu has all the brunch staples plus some creative additions such as a veggie brunch burger or coconut pancakes. There are two locations — one in Gòtic and the other in Sant Antoni.
– Brunch and Cake: A small hipster cafe chain in Barcelona, specialising in colourful, fresh dishes with some unusual ingredients — for example, deep green matcha pancakes. The food was delicious. Bear in mind you may have to queue (we waited 30 minutes on a Sunday morning).
Lunch and Tapas
– Vaso de Oro: For tapas, I always recommend El Vaso de Oro. It's a guidebook favourite but also very popular with locals, as the quality is top-notch. The narrow, rowdy bar is a great place to try some of the classics in an authentically Spanish atmosphere. If it's full, there is another good and slightly cheaper option around the corner called Jai-ca (Calle Ginebra 13).
– Lonja de Tapas: We stopped in simply because we were hungry and fancied sitting somewhere with a view of Santa Maria del Mar. There's a cluster of tapas restaurants right next to the church — although squarely aimed at visitors, we found the food to still be good, and sometimes it's worth paying a little extra for the view.
Dinner
– Cuines Santa Caterina: Half of the appeal is the building itself — housed alongside the Santa Caterina Market in a high-ceilinged, plant-filled restaurant with an open kitchen and floor-to-ceiling windows. The international menu has foods from around the world, split into sections of rice, vegetables, pasta, meats, seafood and eggs. I'm a big fan of the tofu curry and the oven-baked provolone.
– La Cereria: The restaurant I've been to most in Barcelona — I love everything about it, from the veggie food to the colourful interiors and friendly staff. It's run by a co-op and they have a second restaurant, La Bascula, in Born.
– Rasoterra: A high-end, light-filled vegetarian restaurant in El Gòtic with a focus on honest, convivial, thoughtful food. The food is inventive and exquisite, and it goes down as one of the best vegetarian restaurants I've been to. The restaurant has its own garden where they grow much of their produce. Vegetarian or not, don't miss it.
– El Salon: This small, elegantly hodgepodge restaurant is tucked away on a side street in Barri Gòtic. One of the three daily mains is always veggie and unfailingly divine. It's a good romantic choice — the square around the corner is a great spot for some al fresco pre- or post-dinner drinks.
Cafes in Barcelona
– Caelum: A wonderful hidden gem tucked away behind the city's shopping district. Fitting in with the vintage theme, Caelum is a charming underground cave specialising in wine, cakes and all things sweet. Really worth searching for.
– Alsur: This was the café I'd most often go to for long writing sessions with a cup of coffee. The Born branch is a sprawling café that spills out onto one of the barrio's plazas, and is a great place to while away many an hour chatting, working and eating cake. It is also lively in the evenings when the coffees switch to cocktails.
– Demasie: This place served what was by far the best cinnamon bun I've ever tasted. Warm, gooey and oh so delicious. The shop (no seating) also serves coffee and a few other sweet treats.
Bars and Nightlife
– Pipa Club: Although perhaps Barcelona's best-known secret, it still feels delightfully special to press the doorbell with a nondescript 'P' and be buzzed inside to the rambling, hidden bar. The atmosphere ranges from low-key bar to pumping live music venue. It's tucked into the corner of Plaça Reial in Barri Gòtic.
– Can Paixano (Champagneria): A tiny, hectic little bar that serves five types of cava, ranging from 60 cents to one euro, as well as a plethora of ham and cheese. If you want to buy more than one drink, you have to buy a tapa too. It's an excellent thing to see, but if the crowd is too much, buy a bottle and drink it on the beach.
– Bar Marsella: This atmospherically run-down bar in Raval specialises in absinthe, the famously strong liqueur. I wouldn't try more than one!
– Robadors 23: A fun bar any night of the week, but on Sunday it shines when hosting its weekly flamenco jam session of local musicians. Get there early to beat the crowds.
– Razzmatazz: The queen of Barcelona's club and music scene. It has many rooms with something for every taste and attracts lots of big-name DJs and bands — be sure to check the listings.
Where to Stay in Barcelona
– Hotel Barcelona Catedral: One of my favourite places to stay in Barcelona — beautifully designed, centrally located and family-friendly. It's a beautifully photogenic place with lots of Instagram opportunities, including a rooftop pool. Rooms cost from €139 for a double.
– Airbnb: There are plenty of apartment rentals in Barcelona. A great option is an apartment on the edge of El Born — just a five-minute walk from the nearest tube (Urquinaona) and ten minutes from Plaza Catalunya, where the airport bus drops you off. An authentic taste of Barcelona living.
What to Avoid in Barcelona
– The Rambla: The Rambla can be a huge disappointment — a wildly busy thoroughfare jam-packed with tourists, living statues and awful food. Whatever you do, don't eat there.
– Pickpockets: Barcelona has some pretty lax laws when it comes to theft and the city is rife with pickpockets. The Rambla and the beach are popular targets. Don't be scared — you just need to have your wits about you.
Is Barcelona a Good Choice for a Babymoon?
We had a minimoon of three nights in Barcelona at 25 weeks pregnant, nearing the end of the second trimester but still with plenty of energy. I was able to do most of the things I'd normally do — we walked about 20km on our first day, which was a little much, but didn't wipe me out.
I think that regardless of how you're feeling in pregnancy, if you're up to taking a babymoon then Barcelona would be a good choice. Its main draw is that it has a huge amount to offer in a small amount of space. You could spend days at the beach or lounging in the park, visit its many museums and galleries and eat your way through the city's restaurants.